Following
the
Old Grandview Saturday-Sunday, March 4-5, 2006 by Dennis Foster |
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This is a hike I have wanted to do for many years. But, my interest was especially piqued by volume 6 of Burton Holmes' Travelogues, published in 1910, which I acquired from 5 Quail Books. About a third of the volume relates to the Grand Canyon and it is loaded with pictures. I found one that was titled, "At the foot of the Grand View Trail." Years ago, in Harvey Butchart's journals, I read of his attempt to find the old trail, leading off the Tonto Plateau and following it to the river. He remarked that there wasn't much room to wander about at the river, but that he was able to match the area up with photos from an old book. There is a photo in George Warton James' The Grand Canyon of Arizona (also 1910, and one of my all time favorites), and I thought that was the photo he used. But, that photo is dark and there is precious little detail to use in matching up that this is the right spot. Well, Holmes' photo is much better, and there is quite a lot in the foreground that one can use in discerning the exact location of this spot. As I realized that this was the photo that Butchart must have been using, I wanted to check this route out. Again. I had started down the so-called Old Grandview Trail in 1984. Halfway down the Vishnu Schist I was sure I had gotten off the trail, but I did make it to the river. Since then, I have been convinced that I missed the real trail, and I always wanted to go back and scout out this route again. So, with hiking buddy John Eastwood, we headed down the Grandview Trail early on Saturday morning, March 4. We were surprised, right away, by the extensive improvements that had been made to the upper section of the trail, in the Kaibab limestone. Apparently, a huge rockslide wiped out a big chunk of the upper trail. In fact, in one spot, the trail used to go between the cliff and a very large boulder - the latter is no longer there. What is really neat about the trail work is that it replicates the old look of the trail with lots of wood cribbing used to shore up the trail bed. You do still hang out over the edge a bit, but the trail is in better shape and wider as well. In fact, the work was so widespread, that the trail had been closed for many months, late last spring and into the summer. The trail improvements extend to the long stretch through the Supai. That used to be very rocky and, at times, a bit indistinct. But, it is much broader and easier to follow now. And, there have been a few other improvements, most notably is the shoring up of the cobblestoned sections that had been starting to erode away. In a little over three and a half hours, John and I were lunching beside a small waterfall in Cottonwood Creek, off the west side of Horseshoe Mesa, where the Tonto Trail crosses. It was clear and the temperatures were pleasant. While here, we saw our second hiker of the day, so it was not crowded! While contouring along the Tonto Trail, I couldn't resist sitting out on a protruding rock, in the spirit of the Kolb brothers! |
The upper section of the Grandview Trail, in the Kaibab Limestone, has been heavily repaired with extensive cribbing. Here a rock slide began. |
Even in
the Supai layer, some of |
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